I decided yesterday that today was going to be a day where I put work and stress (OK you can chuckle if you want) to one side and take part in some of the non-cultural aspects that make the town of Ubud famous.
It’s difficult being here and not getting caught up in the spirituality of Ubud. Despite the fact that “Eat, Pray, Love” can be watched, read, or toured doesn’t dilute the fact that Ubud is the cultural, spiritual, and artistic center of Bali. It is also the seat of the royal family and as such, Ubud seems to exude a certain sophisticated charisma not found elsewhere.
If you can imagine a jungle setting (coconut trees, banana trees, orchids, lilies etc) and then place a river through it…not an Amazonian river but more of a wide meandering creek.
Then add some thatched roofed huts, stone walkways with bright white shells embedded in the shapes of flowers and fish, birds chirping, koi splashing, natural peace and quiet, and then a thunderstorm with raindrops as big as grapes. You now have the perfect setting for a day at the spa with massage, some royal treatment, and complete relaxation.
You may think I’m over-selling it but believe me it’s all true. I have photos!
The Ubud Sari has been around since 1996 and is one of the original Balinese Health Resorts in Ubud. It sits at the end of a very famous road called Jalan Kajeng. The road is famous because back in the 70’s when Bali was being discovered by the backpacking set, an artist by the name of Hans Snell set up shop here.
He opened a gallery and set about becoming one of a few artists of his era to follow in the footsteps of Gauguin; replacing Tahiti for Bali. The road now is home to thousands of names, fingerprints, philosophies, and quotes, all embedded in concrete blocks that pave the way to a day of healthy indulgence. These fingerprints etc date back to the 70’s when the first block was laid; they belong to travelers who have passed through long before me.
The Ubud Sari is not a large place but it does offer a couple of villas for those who want a longer pampering, relaxing, and “resetting” program. For me, two to three hours seemed like that should do the trick.
Then I would have enough time to go get a hair cut.
First up was the steam shower!! It’s 90 degrees outside, muggy (as it just rained grapes!) and it’s not unreasonable to think that getting into an even hotter environment might not bring about a more relaxed self.
I did what was required though and am now of the belief that having my last bit of energy sapped from my wilting body broke me into a submissive state whereby all that would follow could be more readily enjoyed.
Now it was off to the massage room. This is a small three walled bungalow with the exposed side facing the river and the jungle. For the next hour I am massaged to within an inch of nirvana.
If you want it strong, just ask, a bit softer, grunt a little louder.
Next up was the Mandi Lular. This is a scrubbing mixture that is scraped or massaged, depending on your tolerance, across your flesh resulting in a rebirth of skin that quite possibly got damaged while spending too much time eating fish on the beach (in the sun) in Padang Bai. All of that is removed and you’re left feeling young again.
Giddy on youth and zen I am now escorted into a flower petal bath and left to soak in the warm water for twenty minutes with a cup of ginger tea at my side. The view is once again the river and my companions vary from geckos to frogs to whatever else decides to stop on in and check out the latest intruder to their domain.
Once done and the $25 (yep, $25) is all used up, or at least you think it is; think again.
Now it’s time for the sauna room, then the steam room, and then the cold water Jacuzzi with deceptively warm spray jets. A plunge underneath and instantly everything that has happened to over the prior two-hour period sets, like a jello mold in the fridge.
You are now fully transformed.
Everything in your world is at peace, life is good, the trees are greener, the air fresher, and if I could have seen the sky I have no doubt that it would have been bluer. The kind of blue that mesmerizes and makes you realize just how wonderful life is.
Every trip to Ubud should include one of these days. I was so content I forgot to get a haircut.
For a related story about tiny masseuses click here
For photos of Indonesia click here.
Flat Tires and Slow Boats 
Tim that sounds like an absolutely scrumptious experience! I have yet to make it to Bali and the more I hear about this magical place to more I long to make a journey there. Perhaps a mother daughter trip when my oldest graduates high school next year… I think we’ll most need a lot of pampering 🙂
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So special!. Wish to get that kind of treat. Thanks for sharing the post and the pictures.
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The Balinese Health Resorts in Ubud sound very enticing. 🙂 I have to say, I’m a bit green with envy! I sure could use a relaxing massage, although I think I’ll take a pass on the steam bath. I hate excessive heat!
So when are you going to get your hair cut?
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I haven’t been to a spa in over a year. Reading this post about Ubud makes me want to go.
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I’m a big fan of the Spa and check in for a periodic tune-up, but this brings a whole new dimension to the sensory aspect of the process. The ‘nature’ soundtrack and darkened closets of the urban Spa just doesn’t hold a candle to the feast of natural sounds, sights, and slithering geckos of Ubud so tantalizingly described.
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I love the way you described Ubud Sari and your experience. I can picture it. I can feel it. Sigh!
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Tim I cannot help but enjoy the ladies comments on this post. I am not big on sauna treatments myself, but still you are a great writer and description is your top craft.
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Wow, that sounds wonderful. You described your experience so well that I felt like I was right there with you. I totally want a sauna and steam bath now. There is a Burke Williams down the street from me, but the prices there start over $100 and I’m sure it isn’t nearly as breathtaking as the spa in Bali.
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It’s seems to me that it would be pretty hard to beat a spa that is immersed in a natural surrounding like the Ubud Sari.
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Sounds like heaven! I feel more relaxed, just reading about it! You have a gift for description. It sure makes it easier to live vicariously through your stories.
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It’s great to hear about Bali from you, as Gilbert’s “Eat, Pray, Love” makes some of the appeal of the place feel a bit commercialized now. At one point, products related to the book and movie were being sold on QVC. There’s nothing like a relaxing massage 😉
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Ah, so jealous! Your hair probably didn’t mind at all that it was spared a trim.
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What an amazing experience it must have been. To feel invigorated and youthful again… I could go for that right now!!! Thank you for sharing your experience with us. It’s almost as if I’m there!
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WOW, does that ever sound luxurious and relaxing. No wondered you forgot your haircut. But then again, with that kind of treatment at that price, who would care… LOL.
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I look forward to reading your blog each week. I am unable to travel right now, due to work etc, but your blog is like a magic carpet and transports me to places I have only dreamed about.
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With “Then add some thatched roof huts” and you had captured me again. What an experience – the way you described it, I could almost feel the relaxation setting in. Sure wish they had one of those spas withing driving distance from me. Guess next time you better get the haircut first.
Lenie
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I think it’s hilarious that you forgot your haircut after all that. Bali is on my radar for upcoming trips. Ubud has been mentioned by a few other people but I hadn’t seen this Sauna before.
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Just way too relaxed to deal with getting a haircut.
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That’s the life eh? Forgetting the important stuff when saunas and awesome experiences lie in wait. Couldn’t agree with you more.
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It’s relaxing just reading this Tim. (And looking at the pictures.)
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Hi tim; it sounds like an amazing place. Ive read eat pray love and enjoyed it thoroughly. of course it doesn’t hurt that the star of part two is a bigger than life texan. 🙂 glad you got some rest and relaxation given the health difficulties in your recent posts. take care out there, Max
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That sounds like a little corner of heaven you are in! I’m envious. $25! unbelievable for what you described in sensory detail. Love knowing I can visualize the environment with your prompt to, “If you can imagine a jungle setting …” and I did just that. Thanks!
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I feel more relaxed just reading this, Tim as I am nursing a terrific migraine today. Your adventures are so amazing and you always tell your stories so beautifully. I enjoyed those few minutes of escape while reading. $25 for a massage? Unheard of here in the States! Continued safe travels to you.
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It’s easy to get that completely relax feeling, almost like flying, in Asia. Has happened to me many times in several countries there. The way you achieved it in this post you can get in lots of places in the Middle East as well. But you pay more for it:-)
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I will have to forward this to my friend whose daughter just moved to Bali! It sounds like the spa at Ubud would be right up her alley! Mostly, I’m happy that you could stress relieve…sounds delightful, right down to the splashing of the Koi!
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There are so many gorgeous spas in Bali that I don’t think she will have a hard time finding one. But, to me, this is somewhere special.
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