On first impression you may think the artistic and cultural capital of Bali is small. You could easily be mistaken into believing the town consists of just a few intersecting streets full of shops and restaurants. While there is some truth in this, Ubud has grown over the years as it keeps pace with its international reputation.
Culture, tradition, art, music, and dance have all remained in tact . Ubud is a town of royalty and even its dialect is a version of Balinese that commands respect in the highest order.
Being captivated by all the activity that is the towns center is part of the experience. You could spend days wandering the streets and lanes of Monkey Forest, Hanoman, Raya, and Bisma.
To do so you would certainly be kept busy, well fed, and entertained.
By setting horizons a little further out what you will find is a quieter, more stunning, more impressive Ubud. The kind of Bali we all imagine before setting out from familiar shores.
Waking up early, if possible, is a good idea when traveling as so many opportunities await in the youthful hours of every day. What starts out as a short walk to soak in the sounds of a waking town becomes a day of trekking that re-invigorates an already enthusiastic respect for this royal stronghold atop an island.
Ubud is surrounded by villages that offer an important insight into Bali life and culture. Walking is a great way to soak this up and even though cycling is also a very enjoyable way to go about the journey, believe me…
You will be walking alongside and pushing that bike a fair amount of the time.
Rivers cut through the undulating land creating gorges with steep entrance and exit points. The exhilaration of coasting your two wheeled cruiser past rice fields flanked by palm trees is offset when you find yourself at a 45 degree angle pushing the same bicycle out the other side; sweat dripping from you as if your forehead were a faucet.
If you walk, what awaits you is a trek through brilliant green terraced paddies, past rivers, streams, rapids, and canyons. The spectacular terrain makes viewing many of these areas impossible by any other means.
The point is that Ubud offers a lot; naturally. Experience Monkey Forest, the market, and the restaurants around the center but if time permits do yourself a favor and strap on a good pair of walking shoes and take to the hills.
As with the end of most days I return to Ubud famished.
The Balina Lagoon may not be the fanciest restaurant in town and it may not be anywhere near a body of water but, this aside, the food is authentic and incredibly tasty.
The Balina Lagoon has been in existence since 1994 which considering the rate of change in and around Bali this pretty much makes it an institution.
The restaurant is located down a tiny lane and the sign at the entrance is a big red wooden bloated fish with a fork and knife criss-crossed along its dorsal fin. The furniture is typical Balinese style bamboo and the walls are adorned with either circular or heart shaped mirrors…and for some reason framed dresser drawer knobs.
The table cloths are also a bamboo pattern keeping them in concert with the furniture. The walls are pale green, keeping it out of concert with the deep red ceiling. It goes nicely with the fish sign though.
The background music right now is Julio Englesius signing “All the Girls I used to Love”.
As a child I have had lodeh many times. I began tonight’s meal with this typical spicy soup. As today had worn on, a sniffle I had inadvertently come into contact with began to dig in and made me feel lousy. I figured lodeh may just be the answer so I got it with extra spice and let it rip on my sniffer.
By the time I was done, any bugs I had in my system were out. Swimming for freedom through my forehead.
Main course was Beef Rendang. I wasn’t looking for any kind of remedy from this dish; just a tasty dinner of Indonesian comfort food. Rendang is cooked in a variety of ways and depending on where you are and whose mother is cooking it the end result can be vastly different. I have had Rendang in a stew format and I have it cut so fine it was more like a beef paste. This time it came as three large chunks of beef covered in vegetables with a small side of rice.
I leave this lagoon full, happy, free of a cold, and sporting a glistening forehead.
As I write this my mouth is watering. Memories of beef, tender and flavorful, flooding back directly to my taste buds.
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Flat Tires and Slow Boats 
Ubud seems like a very interesting place. The food from that restaurant looked great.
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I’m a morning person and I too love to explore in the early hours. I also love exotic food – spicy and different are compliments in my opinion. Love your articles.
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Another great post. I cannot travel, but when I read your writings, I get a feeling I am along with you on the trip, Thanks for sharing.
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Had never heard of Ubud. But from the pictures of the scenery and the food it looks like a very vibrant place. Would be amazing to be able to explore the area and the cuisine.
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Love that name of Monkey Forest. It spells having lot of fun to me.
I live in a tourist town. When visitors ask us for restaurant recommendations, we always steer them to a locals favorite. Forget the tourist trap ones!
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That beef stew looks and sounds mouthwatering! I know of only one Indonesian dish – nasi goreng – I believe it’s made with tamarind paste? NIcely spicy, with enough zip to wake you up but not lose the flavour. Scenery is also stunning – winner combination!
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My Mum grew up in Indonesia for over 20 years so I am very familiar with nasi goreng and all its permutations. Place a fried egg on top and you have a winner.
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Sounds just lovely, and the lush green of the countryside in your photos is really beautiful Tim. I’ve always preferred finding finding out of the way places to eat instead of larger touristy type restaurants. I’ve never been to Bali but have heard so many wonderful things about the country and people, hopefully one day I’ll get there.
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Everyone should go there at least once and explore. There are so many areas of the island that are not affected by tourism that you can really get lost…in a good way.
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Bali looks and sounds like a wonderful place to visit. I admire both your extensive travels and your writing style. That spicy soup sounds great to me. Thank you for sharing your vibrant photographs.
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You certainly are making the case for a someday visit to Bali on my behalf with these posts you’ve been doing, which is exactly what a travel ambassador needs to do 😉
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You definitely should go Jeri and then get away from the touristy areas. I have no doubt you would love it.
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One of my absolute favorite things to do on any journey is to take a long walk. It probably goes back to my early days in NYC where everyone walks, but it just relaxes me, and I especially love taking in new sites. Needless to say, I definitely wanted to be on that walk through Ubud with you. You made it sound wonderful.
As I side note, I can’t imagine walking with those huge sacks on my head. That must be exhausting, especially if it has to be done repeatedly.
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I am constantly amazed when I see men and women in areas like this one carrying these sacks on their heads. You’re right, they are pretty heavy. As for walking, I laso find it relaxing and do it where ever I travel; it is the best way to run into the unexpected.
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While it may have grown, your pictures certain make Ubud appear a peaceful place, a great setting for a meal like the one you describe.
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A friends daughter just returned from Bali and Ubud was her most favorite place. I’ll have to ask if she tried Balina Lagoon! The food looks so tasty in those photos, it has my mouth watering:) Oh, it makes me want to hop a plane right now…
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Ubud is one of those places I could return to over and over. I have been going there since 1991 and even though it has changed beyond recognition from that first visit, it is still a magical place.
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It certainly sounds and looks like Ubud has a lot of offer. And my mouth is also watering.
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How amazing is Ubud? I loved the rice paddies and you captured them really beautifully!
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It is an amazing place to stop and enjoy life on Bali.
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Thank you for sharing your experience in Ubud. The food sounds tantalising. I like the pretty shapes of the vegetables on your plate.
The photographs are captivating – are the young people carrying rice on their heads?
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Thanks Phoenicia and yes.
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Got to Bali last night, going to Ubud tomorrow! Bookmarking all of your Ubud sections for reference 🙂
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You’ve made my mouth water too with those food photos. What a glorious place to trek and eat. I haven’t been to Bali yet so hopefully one of these days. I’m so glad there are a variety of things to do and experience there.
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I liked the phrase “Walking is a great way to soak this up”. I am in Uganda and took a walk yesterday and oh how so refreshing to soak it all up. Flat tires and slow boats, I got your drift today about that concept and I think that is a great way to soak up on travel.
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Hi Tim; I think you would have been a favorite of my dad because I notice no matter where you are you seem to have a knack for finding the best restaurants with the tastiest food. 🙂 good thing my dinner is almost ready. When i hear people talk about biking i wonder did you see any tandem bikes? can’t see to steer so its always better on a bicycle built for two. thanks for sharing and take care out there, Max
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No tandems down those lanes Max. The lanes in between the rice fields are very narrow.
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Would love to be in Ubud right now and explore, eat and relax. Sounds, and looks, like a wonderful place.
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It is great to see not over development and being able to enjoy natural beauty. Knowing the food is fresh has to be amazing. I notice it was a small piece of beef and larger portions of vegetables. We can all learn from this.
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That looks so cool! I would love to try their food! I hear Bali is magical! What are those people carrying on their heads?
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Those are bags of rice, coming out of the field and onto your dining table.
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Many thanks Tim for transporting me with your words to the wonder of Ubud I know and love. While change it has, what I keep returning for is the strength of its continuing cultural traditions and the spirit and kindness of the people…..so very, very special.
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